The black tie dress code for men means a black tuxedo: a jacket with satin or grosgrain lapels, matching trousers with a side stripe, a plain white shirt, a black bow tie, and a cummerbund or waistcoat. Add suspenders instead of a belt and polished black oxfords. A dark suit with a long tie does not meet the code.
Black tie is the most common formal code in the U.S. today. You will see it on wedding invitations, galas, award dinners and some proms. The rules are short and strict, which makes them easy to get right once you know them.
What is the difference between black tie, black tie optional and formal?
Invitations use a handful of phrases that sound alike but ask for different things. Here is how they compare for men.
| Dress code | What men wear | Tuxedo required? |
|---|---|---|
| Black tie | Black tuxedo, white shirt, black bow tie, cummerbund or waistcoat, black dress shoes | Yes |
| Black tie optional | Tuxedo preferred, or a dark navy or charcoal suit with a conservative tie | No, but expected from the hosts and wedding party |
| Formal | Usually read as black tie optional; a tuxedo or a dark suit both work | No |
| Cocktail / semi-formal | Suit and tie, any solid or quiet pattern, lighter colors allowed by day | No, a tuxedo is overdressed |
When an invitation is vague, ask the hosts. If you cannot ask, a dark suit is the safe floor for formal and black tie optional, and a tuxedo is the only right answer for black tie.
What are the tuxedo rules for black tie?
A tuxedo differs from a suit in a few specific details. Each one matters, because they are what separate the two at a glance.
- Faced lapels. The lapels are covered in satin or grosgrain silk, not the jacket cloth.
- Trouser stripe. A single stripe runs down the outside of each leg, in the same facing as the lapel.
- Black bow tie. Solid black, ideally matching the lapel facing. Not a long tie, not a color.
- Cummerbund or waistcoat. One or the other covers the waistband. Never both.
- No belt. Tuxedo trousers hold up with suspenders or a fitted waist.
- Plain white shirt. No pattern, no color, no button-down collar.
Color stays simple too. Black is the standard, and midnight navy is accepted. Save white dinner jackets and colored velvet for events that say so.
Shawl, peak or notch lapel: which should you choose?
All three show up on tuxedos, and the choice is mostly about formality and your build.
| Lapel | Look | Formality | Works best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shawl | One smooth, rounded curve, no notch | Traditional black tie | Most builds; softens a broad or square frame |
| Peak | Points angle up toward the shoulder | Traditional black tie | Shorter or rounder men; the upward line adds height and width at the shoulder |
| Notch | Same cut as a business suit lapel | Least formal tuxedo | Black tie optional, proms, men who want a tux that reads closer to a suit |
If you are buying one tuxedo to own for years, pick a shawl or peak lapel in black. Both are correct at any black tie event. Our tuxedo collection carries all three styles in slim and classic fits.
How should a tuxedo fit?
Tuxedos are sized like suits: chest plus length. A 40R is a 40" chest in regular length, which suits men about 5'8" to 6'. Short is under 5'8", long is over 6'.
If you fall between two sizes, take the larger chest. Waist and sleeves are easy alterations; the chest is not. The jacket should close without pulling into an X at the button, and the shirt cuff should show about a quarter to half an inch past the sleeve.
Slim fits have a higher armhole and a tapered leg. Classic fits give a fuller chest and a straight leg, which is more comfortable over a long dinner and dancing.
What shirt goes with a tuxedo?
A plain white dress shirt. Pick a spread or wing collar, and make sure the collar closes comfortably with a bow tie on, since you will wear it buttoned all night.
Dress shirts are sized by neck and sleeve. A 32/33 sleeve fits up to about 5'10", 34/35 fits 5'11" to 6'2", and 36/37 is for taller men. Browse white dress shirts by neck and sleeve, such as the white spread collar slim fit shirt.
What shoes do you wear with a tuxedo?
Black leather oxfords, polished to a high shine. A plain toe or whole cut oxford is the cleanest choice because it has no broguing or extra seams to break up the line.
- Wear: black plain oxfords, black whole cut oxfords, black dress socks that cover the calf.
- Skip: brown or burgundy shoes, wingtips, rubber-soled casual shoes, and white or patterned socks.
The solid black whole cut oxford fits the code exactly. See more black dress shoes in standard and wide widths.
Which accessories are allowed with black tie?
Black tie keeps accessories quiet. The goal is a clean black and white outfit with nothing that pulls the eye.
- Suspenders. Since a belt is out, suspenders keep the trousers at the right height and the stripe hanging straight. Choose black, like these black leather suspenders.
- Pocket square. White, folded flat in the breast pocket.
- Cufflinks and studs. Simple silver, gold or black, if your shirt takes them.
- Watch. A thin dress watch or none at all. Leave the sports watch at home.
Find suspenders, ties and gloves in our menswear accessories.
What should men wear to a black tie wedding or prom?
At a black tie wedding, the groom and groomsmen wear tuxedos, usually matching. Guests follow the same rules as any black tie event. The groom can stand apart with a different lapel or a waistcoat while the groomsmen wear cummerbunds.
Proms are looser. A black tuxedo is always correct, and a notch lapel or a colored bow tie is common and fine. If the school or venue calls it formal rather than black tie, a dark suit works too.
Our wedding suits and tuxedos cover the groom, the party and the guests.
Is it worth owning a tuxedo?
If you expect two or three black tie events in the next few years, owning one makes sense. A tuxedo fitted to you looks better than one picked off a size chart for a single night, and a black shawl or peak lapel tux does not go out of style.
Order at least three weeks ahead. Orders ship in 1 to 2 business days, then take 3 to 7 business days in transit, with free U.S. shipping on orders of $60 or more. Unworn items with tags can be returned within 30 days, so there is time to exchange a size before the event.
FAQ
What is the black tie dress code for men?
Black tie means a black tuxedo with satin or grosgrain lapels, matching trouser stripes, a plain white shirt, a black bow tie, a cummerbund or waistcoat, and polished black shoes. A regular suit and long tie do not meet the code.
Can I wear a black suit to a black tie event?
Not if the invitation says black tie. A black suit has self-faced lapels and no trouser stripe, so it reads as a suit next to real tuxedos. At a black tie optional event a dark suit is acceptable.
Do you wear a belt with a tuxedo?
No. Tuxedo trousers are worn without a belt, and most have no belt loops. Use suspenders, also called braces, or rely on a well-fitted waist.
Which tuxedo lapel is most formal?
Peak and shawl lapels are the traditional black tie choices and are equally correct. A notch lapel tuxedo is still a tuxedo, but it is the least formal of the three.
What shoes go with a tuxedo?
Plain black leather oxfords with a high shine are the standard. Skip brown shoes, brogue detailing and loafers with heavy hardware.
How far ahead should I order a tuxedo for a wedding or prom?
Order at least three weeks before the event. Orders ship in 1 to 2 business days and spend 3 to 7 business days in transit, which leaves time for an exchange if the size is off.