In a slim fit vs classic fit suit, the cut is the difference: slim has a higher armhole, narrower lapel and tapered leg for lean builds, while classic has a fuller chest and straight leg for more room. A portly fit adds room through the chest and waist while keeping the shoulder in proportion.
What is the difference between slim, classic and portly fit suits?
All three are sized by chest plus length, so a 40R is a 40-inch chest in a regular length. What changes is how the cloth is shaped around it.
Slim fit
A slim fit jacket has a higher armhole, which lets the sleeve move with your arm without lifting the whole jacket. The lapel is narrower and the body is shaped closer through the waist. The trousers taper from the knee to the hem.
It looks sharp on lean builds but is less forgiving if you carry weight in the middle.
Classic fit (also called regular fit)
A classic fit jacket has a fuller chest and a straighter body, and the trousers run straight from the hip down. It sits a little away from the body rather than following it.
Most men find it comfortable for a long day, and it suits a broader chest or seat that feels tight in a slim cut.
Portly fit and big & tall
A portly fit adds room through the chest and the waist while keeping the shoulder in proportion. That matters, because simply buying a bigger regular size to fit the stomach usually leaves the shoulders hanging and the sleeves too long.
Standard suit trousers come with a 6-inch drop, so a 42 jacket pairs with a 36-inch waist. If your waist is close to or larger than your chest, a portly cut is built for that build. You will find these in our big and tall suits and separates.
What about trim fit and modern fit?
You will see trim fit and modern fit on some products. These are names some makers use for cuts that sit somewhere between slim and classic, and the exact shape varies from one maker to the next.
The fit is listed on every product page. If you are unsure how one compares to what you wear now, email support@bohorads.com with your usual size and build and we will reply within one business day.
Which suit fit is right for my build?
Start with your build, not your age. Builds change over time, and the fit that worked at 25 may not be the one that works now.
| Your build | Fit to try first | Why | Works well for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lean or narrow, chest and waist close to a 6" drop or more | Slim | Higher armhole and tapered leg take out excess cloth | Interviews, office, evening events, younger groomsmen |
| Athletic, broad chest and shoulders, narrow waist | Slim or classic | Slim if the chest is not tight; classic if it pulls across the back | Weddings, work, formal events |
| Average build, some weight in the middle | Classic | Fuller chest and straight leg sit cleaner and are easier to sit in | Church, funerals, all-day weddings, work |
| Heavier build, waist near or above chest | Portly | Extra room in chest and waist without oversized shoulders | Any occasion where the jacket stays buttoned |
| Tall (over 6') or short (under 5'8") | Any fit in L or S length | Length is a separate choice from cut | Everything; get the length right first |
For a wedding party, the groom and groomsmen do not all need the same cut. Matching color and fabric in each man's best fit looks more uniform than one cut that suits half the group. Browse wedding suits and tuxedos to match colors across fits.
How should a suit fit, whatever the cut?
- Shoulders: the shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends. No divot below the seam, and no cloth hanging past it.
- Chest: buttoned, the jacket should lie flat with no X-shaped pulling around the button. You should fit a flat hand inside the front, not a fist.
- Sleeve length: with arms at your sides, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff should show.
- Jacket length: the jacket should cover your seat. With arms relaxed, the hem usually lands around your knuckles or the middle of your hand.
- Trouser break: the hem should rest lightly on the shoe. A slim, tapered leg looks best with little or no break; a classic straight leg can take a slight break.
When should you size up?
If you fall between two chest sizes, take the larger one. Waist and sleeves are easy alterations; the chest isn't.
Size up as well if the jacket buttons but pulls when you reach forward or sit, or if you plan to wear a sweater vest or heavier shirt underneath.
Don't size up for long arms or a long torso; that is what length is for. S is under 5'8", R is 5'8" to 6', L is over 6'.
What can alterations fix, and what can't they?
A local tailor can do a lot with a suit that fits in the shoulders and chest, but cannot rebuild a jacket that is wrong there.
| Usually fixable | Hard or not fixable |
|---|---|
| Trouser hem length | Chest that is too tight |
| Trouser waist, in or out a little | Shoulders too wide or too narrow |
| Sleeve length on most jackets | Armhole height |
| Taking in the jacket waist | Lapel width |
| Tapering a trouser leg | Jacket length, beyond a small amount |
This is why the chest and shoulders decide the size, and everything else follows.
How do I order the right fit online?
- Measure your chest and pick the size and length (S, R or L) from the chart.
- Pick the fit from the table above, and confirm it on the product page.
- Check the trouser waist against the 6-inch drop. If it will be too snug, consider a portly cut or plan a waist alteration.
- Add your inseam in the order notes for free trouser hemming before shipping.
Suit trousers ship with an unfinished hem unless you ask for hemming. Hemmed trousers can't be returned for wrong size or change of mind, so leave the hem unfinished if you are unsure of the size. Unworn items with tags can be returned within 30 days.
Orders over $60 ship free in the U.S., leave within 1 to 2 business days, and take 3 to 7 business days in transit. Start with our full range of men's suits in slim, classic and portly fits, or try the cut in a single jacket from our blazers and sport coats. More answers are on our shipping and returns FAQ.
FAQ
What is the main difference between a slim fit and a classic fit suit?
A slim fit suit has a higher armhole, a narrower lapel and a tapered leg, so it sits close to the body. A classic fit suit has a fuller chest and a straight leg, so it gives more room to move and sit comfortably.
Who should wear a portly fit suit?
A portly fit suits men who carry more through the chest and stomach than a standard drop allows. It adds room through the chest and waist while keeping the shoulder in proportion, so the jacket closes without pulling and the shoulders don't hang off you.
Should I size up if I am between two suit sizes?
Yes, take the larger chest size. Waist and sleeves are easy to adjust, but a jacket that is too tight across the chest cannot be let out enough to fix it.
How much shirt cuff should show below a suit sleeve?
About 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff should show when your arms hang at your sides. If no cuff shows, the sleeve is too long; if more than half an inch shows, it is too short.
Can a tailor make a classic fit suit into a slim fit?
Partly. A tailor can take in the waist, taper the trouser leg and shorten the sleeves, but cannot raise the armhole or narrow the lapel, which are two of the things that make a slim fit look slim.
What do trim fit and modern fit mean on a product page?
They are fit names some makers use for cuts that sit between slim and classic. The exact cut varies by maker, so check the fit listed on the product page and email support@bohorads.com if you want advice before ordering.